There's no argument that an air ride suspension is the hot setup for laying a Euro low; even hydraulics companies are offering air ride (as you can see in our Suspension Guide elsewhere in this issue). However, Excentrix Automotive Innovations (EAI) has been developing "bolt-in" air bag, air bag strut and now air cylinder kits for cars and trucks since the beginning.
We contacted EAI owner Cain Morris to arrange a time when we could see just how "bolt-in" their kits really are and how well a car rode with their air ride products. Our timing was perfect as Brian Goforth from Endless Creations was about to install a kit on Titus Chan's '99 Honda Civic at The Hack Shack's installation and fabrication facility in Ontario, California.
The Civic kit is among EAI's most popular packages and comes with a 100-percent warranty. The kit includes EAI Parker air cylinders with laser-cut cylinder mounts and billet forks, Thomas air compressors, chrome tank, Parker valves, pressure switches, brass fittings, 1/2-inch air line, slim-line Airtronix switch box (with front, back, pancake and side-to-side moves) and very detailed installation instructions, complete with diagrams for the cylinders, plumbing and wiring.
It took Brian two days to do the installation, due to his meticulous nature and the fact that he removed the front and rear bumper fascias for easier valve mounting access and for our photography. We found the installation to be very straightforward and--as advertised--a true bolt-in kit that "required" no cutting or welding. (Because of a custom amp/speaker enclosure in the trunk, Brian mounted the compressor under the car and chose to weld a mounting plate with bolts to the frame rail instead of just bolting the compressor it to the frame.)
However, the most important part of the "test" remained: How well it would work. With the Civic set at the proper (safe) ride height, Brian drove all around the business complex, over dips, bumps, sharp turns, etc. The car handled perfectly and the ride was very comfortable, maybe better than stock. Then he parked and put the suspension through every move possible and (thanks to the fast Parker valves) it responded quickly even with only one compressor. To sum it all up, the EAI kit is quick and comfortable.
EAI offers complete kits for Honda, Acura, Mitsubishi, Ford (Probe), Mazda (626), Mercedes and many others, plus trucks and SUVs. Call or check out their Web site for complete product information. For retail prices and installation information, call The Hack Shack near you or visit their Web site. And be sure to tell them that you read it in LRE.
Check out the photos and you'll see how simple it is to install EAI's bolt-in air ride kit. (Note: Brian did the installation with the car on a frame lift, but it can be done with the car secured on good jackstands. Also, EAI warns: Do not over-tighten bolts into billet brackets as it may damage the brackets and the tops of the cylinders.)
Thanks to the fast Parker valves, front, back and side-to-side moves are quick. And the best part, the ride is as good, if not better than stock.
 This Civic has a sweet slam...  This Civic has a sweet slam and a righteous ride thanks to EAI. |
 The EAI "true bolt-in" Civic...  The EAI "true bolt-in" Civic air cylinder kit has everything that you'll need for a simple installation including the most complete instructions we've seen. |
 1. & 2. When it came in the...  1. & 2. When it came in the Civic had coil-overs, which work well, but it's not possible to change the ride height "on the fly" like you can with an air ride suspension. |
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 3. Brian began the installation...  3. Brian began the installation up front by unbolting the strut fork from the control arm and the strut body to make removing the strut easier. |
 4. & 5. Then the strut tower...  4. & 5. Then the strut tower nuts were removed and the coil-over assembly was taken out. |
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 6. & 7. Next, the front EAI...  6. & 7. Next, the front EAI Parker air cylinder and the billet mounting parts were assembled following the detailed diagram and the instructions. |
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 8. Slip the air cylinder into...  8. Slip the air cylinder into the upper strut mount and, using the new urethane bushings provided, bolt the top of the cylinder in place. |
 9. Slip the fork onto the...  9. Slip the fork onto the new lower cylinder rod adapter and use the factory bolts to attach it. Then reinstall the fork on the control arm with the factory bolts. |
 10. The finished air cylinder...  10. The finished air cylinder install looks very cool and provides plenty of wheel/tire clearance. Repeat the steps on the other front strut. |
 11. & 12. Next, Brian moved...  11. & 12. Next, Brian moved to the back. He removed the rear seat, unbolted the top of the strut and then the bottom strut bolt attached to the lower control arm. |
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 13. The coil-over assembly...  13. The coil-over assembly was then removed. |
 14.Then the rear air cylinder...  14.Then the rear air cylinder was assembled per the diagram in the instructions. |
 15. Brian installed a 90-degree...  15. Brian installed a 90-degree elbow fitting in the "side ported" cylinder for the air line. |
 16.The rear cylinder was then...  16.The rear cylinder was then fitted into the top strut mount and bolted in place. |
 17.Then the bottom cylinder...  17.Then the bottom cylinder mount (fork) was bolted to the lower control arm in the middle hole. (The three holes determine how high or low the car will sit.) |
 18.The installed rear air...  18.The installed rear air cylinder is very clean. Brian test fit the air line for routing. Repeat the steps on the other rear strut. |
 19. Next, Brian removed the...  19. Next, Brian removed the front bumper cover/fascia to access the bumper area. |
 20. The front Parker valves...  20. The front Parker valves were assembled and fastened between the bumper and the radiator for protection from damage and exposure. |
 21. The rear bumper cover...  21. The rear bumper cover was also removed and the rear Parker valve assembly attached. The front and rear valve wiring was covered with plastic wire looms for a clean look. |
 22. Because the trunk is full...  22. Because the trunk is full of audio equipment, the compressor had to be installed underneath. Although it wasn't "required," Brian welded a plate with bolts attached to the frame rail to mount the compressor. |
 23. With the compressor bolted...  23. With the compressor bolted in place, a nearby spot was scraped clean (for a good body ground) and the ground wire attached. |
 24. The steel-braided compressor...  24. The steel-braided compressor outlet hose was then attached to the pressure release valve and the valve was mounted securely. |
 25. 26. 27. 28. The front...  25. 26. 27. 28. The front cylinder air lines were then attached and routed to the rear, using tie wraps and hose keepers at strategic locations along the way to secure the lines. |
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 29. Then the rear lines were...  29. Then the rear lines were attached and the "T" fittings to the cylinders were put inline. |
 30. Finally all of the lines...  30. Finally all of the lines were attached to the valves front and rear (including the smaller diameter lines for the pressure gauges) and the bumper covers were reinstalled. |
 31. Normally, the power cable...  31. Normally, the power cable would be attached directly to the battery but in this case Brian used an open slot in the sound system fuse block (in the trunk). |
 32. The chrome air tank was...  32. The chrome air tank was then mounted and the pressure sensor was wrapped with white plumbing tape, attached to the tank and wired in. |
 33. Next, the slim-line Airtronix...  33. Next, the slim-line Airtronix switch box was wired in under the dash according to the wiring diagram. |
 34. For a stealth look, two...  34. For a stealth look, two dual-dial pressure gauges were installed in the glove box. |
 35. Finally, the air lines...  35. Finally, the air lines were wrapped in plumber's tape, fastened to the air tank and the trunk liner was put back in place. The finished trunk looks very cool with green and blue neon reflecting off of the chrome tank. |
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